Raw Milk Kefir: A Living Daily Ferment

Check out my Substack Article: Raw Milk Kefir: The Living Daily Ferment

Raw Milk Kefir: A Living Daily Ferment

Foundational · Cuisine: Traditional Fermentation · Caucasus and Eastern European origins

Yields about 1 quart per day · 5 min daily active · 12–24 hr fermentation · Year-round · Best eaten: morning or midday

Why Kefir Is Worth Doing

Kefir is one of the most rewarding daily food projects you can take on. Once your grains are established, the ferment becomes a resilient daily companion. Give it five minutes of attention and a fresh pour of raw milk, and by morning you’ll have a quart of probiotic-rich, mineral-plenty, living fermented dairy. Unlike most yogurt cultures, which weaken with each batch and eventually need replacing, kefir grains keep multiplying and can live indefinitely with a little care. Feed them, and they’ll feed you back.

This isn’t a single recipe so much as a foundational practice. Once kefir grains are alive in your kitchen, you have the base for kefir cheese, fizzy second-fermented kefir, smoothies, dressings and sauces, and the simple bowls of kefir with fresh fruit that anchor breakfast across the Caucasus and Central Asia, and increasingly the modern wellness world.

Want the deep dive? My Substack article, Raw Milk Kefir: The Living Daily Ferment, goes much further. It covers kefir’s Bronze Age history, the 50-plus microbes in every grain, what pasteurization takes from milk, kefir for every phase of your cycle, and a full set of kefir drinks and smoothies.

Finding Your Grains: Where It All Begins

Milk kefir grains are a living symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeasts (SCOBY). True kefir grains have to come from an active, living culture; they can’t be made from scratch. The best sources:

  • A trusted local farmer or homesteader: the gold standard, ideally someone whose grains have been going for years or even decades

  • Cultures for Health (culturesforhealth.com): a well-established U.S. company that sells dehydrated milk kefir grains, which revive with a few days of fresh milk

  • Local fermentation communities: Weston A. Price chapters, homesteading groups, and fermentation classes often have members who share grains for free or trade

  • Online homesteading groups and forums: the fermentation community is generous, and grains are often shared or sold at little cost

  • Etsy: many small producers sell live kefir grains there (check reviews carefully)

  • A friend who already makes kefir: one of the best sources of all, since you can see the grains for yourself first

Healthy grains look plump, opaque, and cauliflower-like. Skip powdered “starter cultures” if you want long-term, self-sustaining kefir. They last only a few batches and behave more like a yogurt culture. Note, too, that milk kefir grains and water kefir grains are entirely different cultures, so one can’t make the other. You’ll need separate water kefir grains if you want to make a dairy-free fizzy drink.

The Acclimation Phase (First 7–10 Days)

New kefir grains need time to adapt to your milk, its mineral content, and your kitchen’s temperature. During this period, your kefir may smell yeasty, come out thinner than expected, and separate quickly. That’s normal. Early batches can be discarded or fed to animals. Give them a week or so, and they find their rhythm.

Your Kefir Kit

  • Glass Mason jars (quart or half-gallon)

  • A breathable cover: a paper towel or cloth with a rubber band, or a sprouting lid (never airtight)

  • A fine-mesh strainer, plastic or stainless steel (avoid reactive metals like aluminum and copper)

  • A wooden spoon or spatula

  • A bowl for straining

  • A storage jar for the finished kefir

Glass, wood, plastic, ceramic, and stainless steel are all fine. Wash your equipment and rinse it thoroughly with non-chlorinated water, since soap residue and chlorine can upset the grains, then let everything air-dry.

The Daily (or Every-Other-Day) Method

  1. Add the grains. Place the kefir grains in a clean glass jar and pour fresh raw milk over them, about 1 tablespoon of grains per 2 cups of milk (1–2 tablespoons per quart). Adjust for the temperature, your preferred thickness, and fermentation time; more grains ferment faster.

  2. Cover loosely with a paper towel and rubber band or a sprouting lid, never airtight.

  3. Ferment at room temperature (68–78°F is ideal) for 12–24 hours, or up to 36 hours when your kitchen is cool.

  4. Check for doneness. It’s ready when the milk has thickened and slightly separated, smells tangy and a little fizzy, may have small pockets of whey near the bottom, and has the texture of drinkable yogurt or thin buttermilk.

  5. Strain. Pour the kefir through the strainer into a clean bowl, gently stirring with a wooden spoon to help it through without damaging the grains.

  6. Store the finished kefir in a clean glass jar with a tight lid in the fridge, or enjoy it right away. It’s at its best within 5–7 days.

  7. Start again. Put the grains back in the jar with fresh milk. Over time they’ll grow, and you can share the extras with friends, dry some as a backup, or add them to your compost.

Once your grains are established, this becomes an automatic five-minute daily rhythm.

Temperature: The Invisible Variable

Fermentation speed, flavor, and texture all depend on temperature:

  • Below about 65°F: slow fermentation and thin kefir

  • 68–78°F (ideal): a balanced ferment that’s thick and creamy

  • Above about 82°F: over-souring and yeasty, sharp, or slightly boozy notes

Kefir naturally shifts with the seasons, so adjust the time and amount of grains as needed. In a Florida summer, ferment 12–14 hours; in a Wisconsin winter, 20–24 hours.

Why Raw Milk Matters

Raw milk keeps its native enzymes (including lipase, alkaline phosphatase, and lactoperoxidase), its fats and proteins in their original form, its minerals (calcium, magnesium, and potassium), and its own native bacteria. Together, they make an ideal home for kefir’s microbes. (Contrary to a common myth, raw milk doesn’t contain lactase, the enzyme that digests lactose. The lactose-digesting work in kefir is done by the fermentation microbes, as you’ll see below.)

Pasteurization, especially ultra-pasteurization at about 280°F, switches off those enzymes and changes the milk proteins enough that kefir often turns out thin and grains can weaken over time.

Best practice: Use fresh, raw, room-temperature milk. Cold milk slows fermentation and can throw off the balance of the culture.

Gold standard: Milk from that morning’s milking, filtered and poured straight into glass jars.

Know your farmer. Raw milk is only as good as the farm it comes from, so the relationship matters. Buy from a small, trusted farm that tests its milk rigorously, keeps its animals healthy on pasture, and will happily walk you through how it milks, handles, and chills its milk. Ask how often they test, whether the herd is tested for H5N1 bird flu (found in some U.S. dairy herds since 2024), and whether you can visit.

Feed the Grains Their Minerals

Kefir grains rely on the minerals in milk, especially calcium, magnesium, and potassium, to stay healthy and keep growing. Fresh, whole milk naturally supplies them, while ultra-pasteurized or low-fat milk can weaken grains over time. If your grains stall or shrink, switch to fresh, whole raw milk, or add a splash of raw cream.

Your Gentle Way Back to Dairy

Many people who are sensitive to commercial dairy do well with kefir, which can be their way back to traditional dairy. Here’s why:

  • The microbes eat much of the lactose. During fermentation, kefir’s bacteria and yeasts break down much of the milk sugar (lactose) into lactic acid and other compounds, often a third to two-thirds of it, with more broken down in longer ferments. People who can’t tolerate a glass of milk can often enjoy a glass of kefir.

  • The microbes support your gut. Kefir grains host more than 50 species of bacteria and yeasts, far more than yogurt. Most of these microbes pass through your gut rather than settling in permanently, but they help shape your gut ecosystem as they go: supporting the gut lining, encouraging the growth of beneficial bacteria, and helping produce short-chain fatty acids that nourish the cells lining your intestines. That’s why drinking kefir regularly matters more than an occasional glass, especially for anyone whose gut has been through antibiotics, processed food, or chronic stress.

  • The proteins are partially predigested. Fermentation begins breaking down the milk’s casein proteins, making them easier to digest. It’s similar to why many people who can’t tolerate fresh milk do well with aged cheeses like cheddar and Parmesan, where months of aging have broken down both the proteins and the lactose.

  • The fats are partly broken down, too. Raw milk’s natural lipase begins breaking down milk fats during fermentation, which may make kefir easier on digestion. Followers of the Weston A. Price Foundation also point to the “Wulzen factor,” an anti-stiffness compound found in raw cream, as a reason to choose raw dairy. In the 1940s, Oregon State physiologist Rosalind Wulzen reported that guinea pigs raised on pasteurized milk developed stiff joints, calcium deposits in their joints, muscles, and arteries, and began wasting away. Adding raw cream back reversed it. Heat destroyed the protective factor, which researchers later linked to stigmasterol, a sterol in the cream. Her work suggests the factor helps keep calcium where it belongs: in the bones, out of the joints and soft tissue. A note: the Wulzen factor has been studied in animals, not yet in people, which makes it a traditional idea worth knowing about.

Many people who’ve cut out dairy because of “intolerance” find they can enjoy raw kefir. Start with 1–2 tablespoons a day and slowly increase. Tolerance often improves over 4–6 weeks of regular kefir as the gut adjusts. It isn’t a guarantee for everyone: a true milk allergy, casein sensitivity, or severe lactose intolerance may persist. But for many people, kefir is the gateway back to traditional dairy.

Kefir vs. Yogurt

Kefir grains host more than 50 species of bacteria and yeasts, while yogurt is typically made with just two bacteria, Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus, sometimes with a few strains added. Kefir also contains beneficial yeasts, which yogurt doesn’t, along with kefiran, a polysaccharide unique to kefir and studied for its immune-supporting effects. It ferments more fully, supports a broader range of gut life, and has a long tradition of use across the Caucasus, Eastern Europe, and Central Asia for digestion, immunity, and longevity.

Whey Separation, Cream, and Texture

As fermentation finishes, clear or yellowish whey naturally pools in the jar. To help it separate, slide a spatula or curd knife down the sides of the jar; this releases trapped whey and thickens the curds.

Raw milk cream sometimes traps the grains on top. Either spoon off the cream and ferment the milk separately, or give the jar a gentle stir partway through. Use the cream for butter or kefir cream cheese.

Taking a Break

  • Short break (1–2 weeks): Cover the grains with fresh milk and keep them in the fridge, changing the milk weekly.

  • Long break: Avoid freezing if you can, since it weakens the cultures. If you do freeze them, revive the grains in fresh milk for 7–14 days before going back to your daily rhythm.

  • A dried backup: Rinse a few extra grains in non-chlorinated water, pat them dry, and air-dry them on parchment at room temperature for 3–5 days, until hard and yellowish. Store them in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to 6 months. To revive them, feed them fresh milk daily; expect about a week of thin batches before they’re back to full strength.

Trust Your Nose

Kefir doesn’t spoil the way fresh milk does: very sour kefir isn’t unsafe, since its acidity and thriving cultures crowd out most unwanted microbes. That’s not a substitute for clean milk, though, so always start with milk from a farmer you know and trust. Mold is rare, but if you ever see it (fuzzy spots of green, black, pink, or orange), discard everything and start fresh with new grains. Trust your nose and your common sense.

A2/A2 Jersey and Guernsey Milk: The Gold Standard

Beyond raw versus pasteurized, the genetics of the cow matter too. Most modern commercial dairy comes from Holstein cows, which often produce A1 beta-casein, a protein variant that appeared in some European cattle several thousand years ago. When A1 casein is digested, it can release a peptide called BCM-7 (beta-casomorphin-7), an opioid-like fragment that New Zealand professor Keith Woodford put on the map in his book Devil in the Milk. In a 2016 crossover trial funded by The a2 Milk Company, people who drank conventional A1/A2 milk had more digestive discomfort, higher markers of gut inflammation, and slower processing on cognitive tests than when they drank A2-only milk. A2/A2 milk comes from cows that carry only the original A2 form, and many people find it easier to digest.

Among cow breeds, Guernseys carry the A2 gene most often, and many Jerseys do too, but A2 status varies from herd to herd, so look for herds that have been tested A2/A2. (Goat’s and sheep’s milk naturally carry A2-type casein.) Jersey and Guernsey milk are also wonderfully rich, often around 4.5–5% butterfat compared with about 3.5% for Holsteins, with golden, beta-carotene-rich cream. Guernsey milk is so golden it was once sold as “Golden Guernsey.” For kefir, A2/A2 Jersey or Guernsey milk makes a thicker, creamier, slightly sweeter ferment, and its rich fats and minerals keep the grains plump and thriving. If you have access to raw A2/A2 Jersey or Guernsey milk from a local farm, that’s the gold standard, both for your kefir and for your digestion.

[Photo] Sweet Mama, the Jersey cow I milked every day!

Sourcing

  • Raw milk: from a local farm, Amish or Mennonite creamery, or herdshare, ideally A2/A2 Jersey or Guernsey, goat, or sheep milk. Amish farms across Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and Wisconsin often keep small, pasture-based herds and sell through cow shares, farm stands, and Amish-run markets. The Weston A. Price Foundation’s raw milk finder at realmilk.com lists producers and state laws. Choose farms that test their milk and herd health, including for bird flu.

  • If raw milk isn’t available: organic, grass-fed, low-temperature vat-pasteurized whole milk (heated gently to about 145°F), non-homogenized and ideally in glass, such as Kalona SuperNatural; or Organic Valley Grassmilk or Maple Hill, checking that the carton doesn’t say “ultra-pasteurized.” Avoid ultra-pasteurized milk, which tends to make thin kefir and can weaken the grains over time.

  • Store-bought kefir: plain, organic, whole-milk kefir from grass-fed animals, such as Alexandre Family Farm.

  • Yogurt (substitute): organic, whole-milk yogurt from A2/A2 cows, or sheep’s or goat’s milk yogurt: Bellwether Farms, Straus Family Creamery, Sierra Nevada Cheese Company goat’s milk, Maple Hill, Painterland Sisters skyr, Alexandre Family Farm, raw yogurt from an Amish farm, or a local dairy.

  • Kefir grains: a local fermenter, Weston A. Price chapter, or homesteading network, or Cultures for Health.

  • Glass Mason jars: Ball, Kerr, or Le Parfait.

  • Sprouting lids: Masontops or Kilner.

  • Fine-mesh strainers: BPA-free plastic or food-grade stainless steel (avoid aluminum and copper).

Raw Kefir with Banana, Mulberries, and Bee Pollen

Serves 1 · 5 min active · 5 min total · Best in mulberry season, which varies by region (see below) · Best eaten: morning

When Are Mulberries in Season?

Mulberry season varies more by region than most fruits:

  • Subtropical and tropical regions (USDA zones 9–11: South Florida, the Gulf Coast, Hawaii, Costa Rica, the Caribbean, and parts of Mexico and Central America): trees often fruit twice, with a main harvest from March through May and a smaller crop in late fall.

  • Temperate regions (USDA zones 5–8: most of the continental U.S., including the Northeast, Midwest, and Pacific Northwest): the season runs from late May through July, peaking in June.

  • Mediterranean climates (USDA zones 8–10: Southern California and parts of Texas and Arizona): the season runs from about April through June.

Outside the harvest, fresh mulberries are nearly impossible to find. They’re too fragile to ship well, which is why they’re so rare in stores and so much more flavorful foraged or picked from a backyard tree. Out of season, swap in fresh blackberries, black raspberries, or boysenberries, which have a similar wild, dark-berry flavor, or use soaked dried black or white mulberries (see Sourcing).

Ingredients

  • 1 cup raw milk kefir (well strained, about 24 hours fermented)

  • 1 ripe banana, thickly sliced

  • ½ cup fresh mulberries (a mix of red, white, and black, if you can find them)

  • 1 tbsp raw bee pollen

  • Optional: 1 tsp raw honey, drizzled

Method

  1. Pour the kefir into a wide, shallow bowl.

  2. Layer the banana slices across the bottom, then pile the mulberries on top.

  3. Scatter the bee pollen over the surface.

  4. Drizzle with a thread of raw honey, if you like.

  5. Enjoy right away.

Make It Your Own

  • Mix your mulberries. If you can find or grow more than one variety, use them together: black mulberry for its wine-like depth, white for its honey sweetness, and red for its bright, berry tartness. The contrast turns a simple bowl into something special. (See Sourcing for more on each variety.)

  • Toasted buckwheat groats, sprinkled on top for crunch.

  • Fresh mint leaves, torn over the top for a fragrant lift.

  • A drizzle of raw cream, for extra richness and fat-soluble vitamins.

  • Crushed walnuts and raw honey scattered over the pollen, in the style of a Caucasus or Persian breakfast bowl.

  • Soaked dried Turkish black mulberries (kara dut), plumped briefly in warm water, for an off-season version with that wine-like Persian flavor.

  • A pinch of ground cardamom over the top, a classic Persian pairing.

Sourcing

  • Raw milk kefir: see the sections above for sourcing raw milk and kefir grains.

  • Bananas: organic, from a co-op or Latin American grocery. In USDA zone 9 and warmer, banana plants are productive backyard perennials. The Cavendish found in most supermarkets is just one of dozens of edible varieties, and Manzano, Burro, and Red bananas, often sold at Latin American markets, each have their own distinct flavor.

  • Bee pollen: fresh and aromatic, from a local beekeeper, ideally within about 30 miles. Local bee pollen carries the pollen of the plants around you and has long been used traditionally for seasonal allergy support. For shipped, Stakich is a small Michigan apiary. Bee pollen can cause allergic reactions in people allergic to pollen or bee products, so start with just a few granules.

  • Raw honey: organic, local, and unfiltered, from a nearby beekeeper. For shipped, Really Raw Honey sells unheated, unstrained honey.

Mulberries: variety matters. Three species are worth knowing, each with its own flavor:

  • Black mulberry (Morus nigra): grown for thousands of years in ancient Persia, Anatolia, and the Levant. The fruit is large, deep purple-black, and so juicy it’s almost fragile, with a wine-like, complex flavor: sweet with a tart edge, faintly resinous, with notes of blackberry, raspberry, and red wine. It’s the mulberry of Persian, Lebanese, and Turkish kitchens. In Persian tradition, fresh black mulberries (toot siah) are eaten in summer, dried into chewy snacks for winter, or simmered into a thick syrup for drinks. In Turkey, dried black mulberries (kara dut) are a winter pantry staple, often pressed into a thick fruit leather called pestil. Black mulberry trees grow in USDA zone 7 and warmer and are increasingly sold by specialty nurseries.

  • White mulberry (Morus alba): native to China, where it’s been grown for thousands of years as the food of silkworms; the entire historic silk industry depended on it. The fruit is much sweeter than other mulberries, often compared to honey or caramel, with pale ivory-to-pink color and very little tartness. Dried white mulberries (toot khoshk in Persian, beyaz dut in Turkish) are sold in Persian and Turkish groceries and eaten like candy, with no added sugar.

  • Red mulberry (Morus rubra): North America’s native mulberry, growing wild from southern Canada to Florida and west to Texas. Its fruit ripens from deep red to dark purple-black, with a flavor between white and black mulberry: sweet, with brighter berry tartness than white and less wine-like depth than black. This is the wild mulberry most North Americans know, the tree that drops pounds of fruit on driveways every June. Red mulberry trees grow in USDA zones 4–9 and can keep producing for 50 years or more.

Fresh mulberries: A backyard tree is the best source of all, and mulberries are productive perennials across most of the U.S. Otherwise, try a farmers’ market, a pick-your-own farm, or a foraging spot along trail edges and old fence lines (always identify the tree carefully, and make sure the spot hasn’t been sprayed). A few popular varieties to plant: Illinois Everbearing (large, dark purple fruit over a long season; USDA zones 4–9), Pakistan (remarkably long, sweet-tart fruit; USDA zone 7 and warmer), and Black Beauty (a compact black mulberry for North American gardens; USDA zone 7 and warmer).

Dried mulberries: Persian and Turkish grocery stores carry both dried black mulberries (kara dut) and dried white mulberries (toot khoshk), often from small family producers in Anatolia and Iran. For organic dried white mulberries, Navitas Organics and Terrasoul both make them. Soak them briefly in warm water to plump them before using.

Raw Kefir with Wild Berries and Tapa Dulce Caramel

A simple summer breakfast bowl, elevated by a slow-simmered caramel made from cream, tapa dulce, and honey

Serves 1–2 · 10 min active · 30 min total (including the caramel) · Best in North America from late spring through summer, when wild berries ripen · Best eaten: morning or early afternoon

Ingredients

Kefir bowl

  • 1½ cups raw milk kefir (24-hour fermented, well strained)

  • 1 cup mixed fresh wild berries (mulberries, raspberries, blackberries, or fraises des bois, if you can find them)

Tapa dulce caramel

  • 1 cup raw heavy cream

  • ½ cup tapa dulce (also sold as panela, piloncillo, rapadura, chancaca, or jaggery), finely grated

  • ¼ cup honey

  • 1 tsp pure vanilla extract (or the seeds of ½ vanilla bean)

  • ¼ tsp Baja Gold sea salt

Method

  1. Start the caramel. Combine the cream, tapa dulce, honey, vanilla, and salt in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat.

  2. Dissolve. Stir constantly until the tapa dulce completely dissolves and the mixture begins to thicken, about 15 minutes. Keep it at a gentle simmer, never a boil, since boiling can make the cream separate.

  3. Reduce. Keep cooking, stirring often, about 10 minutes more, until the caramel is thick but pourable. It thickens more as it cools. For a deeper, darker caramel, cook 5–10 minutes longer, until it turns a rich amber.

  4. Cool to room temperature, or chill.

  5. Build the bowl. Pour the kefir into wide, shallow bowls and top with the berries.

  6. Drizzle the cooled caramel generously over the top.

Storage: The caramel keeps in a glass jar in the fridge up to 2 weeks.

Make It Your Own

  • Browned cream: Simmer the cream alone for 5 minutes before adding the tapa dulce, for deeper, toastier caramel notes.

  • Café de olla caramel: Stir in 1 tbsp strong brewed coffee or espresso at the end, with a pinch of cinnamon, for a Mexican café de olla twist.

  • Toasted hazelnuts or pecans, scattered on top for crunch against the soft kefir and berries.

  • Fresh thyme or lemon balm leaves, scattered over the top for herbal brightness against the rich caramel.

  • Lavender cream: Infuse the cream with 1 tsp dried culinary lavender as it simmers, a Provençal touch.

  • Cardamom and cinnamon: Add ¼ tsp each ground cardamom and Ceylon cinnamon to the caramel, a Persian- and Indian-inspired pairing that’s beautiful with both kefir and berries.

  • Kefir cheese: Drizzle the caramel over kefir cheese instead of kefir for a thicker, more dessert-like bowl.

Nourishment Notes

This is the simplest possible summer breakfast: raw kefir, fresh fruit, and a slow-cooked caramel. Each part brings something real. The kefir delivers live cultures, partially predigested proteins, and the fat-soluble vitamins of properly fermented raw milk. The wild berries bring polyphenols, vitamin C, and anthocyanins, the deep pigments behind their color. The caramel, made with whole-cane tapa dulce instead of refined sugar, brings rich, complex flavor along with a little of the cane’s natural minerals. It’s still sugar, though, so a drizzle is all you need.

If you can get mulberries, use them here too (see the mulberry notes in the bowl above). Fraises des bois (tiny wild alpine strawberries), if you can find or grow them, add a perfume that makes the bowl feel special.

About this caramel. Traditional dulce de leche is made by cooking milk and sugar together low and slow for hours, until it turns thick and caramel-brown. (Simmering a can of sweetened condensed milk is a modern shortcut.) Most versions today use refined sugar. This one uses rich cream, unrefined whole-cane tapa dulce, and a little honey to round out the flavor. The result tastes deeper and more complex, with molasses richness, soft vanilla notes, and a mineral warmth from the whole cane, much closer to the unrefined sweets made across Latin America, the Caribbean, and the Iberian world for centuries before industrial sugar refining took over in the late 1800s. Simmering does end the cream’s raw enzymes, but the flavor is worth it.

A Note on Tapa Dulce

If you’ve spent time in Costa Rica, Mexico, the Caribbean, or the American South during the sugarcane harvest (roughly October through April, depending on the region), you know the smell before you see the fields. Farmers burn the dry leaves off the cane before cutting, and at night the fires run across the hills in long orange ribbons, the air sweet and smoky for miles. By morning, trucks piled impossibly high with cut stalks rumble toward the trapiches, the small family mills, leaving the road sticky with cane juice behind them.

At a trapiche, the cane is pressed and its juice boiled over a wood fire until it darkens from pale green-gold to deep mahogany, then poured into wooden molds to harden. That’s tapa dulce (“tapa” means cap, for the shape of the molds), also known as piloncillo in Mexico, panela in Colombia, rapadura in Brazil, chancaca in Peru, and jaggery in India. It’s the whole cane: the sugar still bound to its molasses and minerals (calcium, iron, magnesium, and potassium), with notes of vanilla and burnt caramel and a slightly bitter edge.

A refinery takes the same juice apart. Centrifuges spin the sugar crystals away from the molasses, and the sugar is filtered and decolorized, often through bone char (charred animal bones), until only pure white sucrose remains. Most brown sugar is simply that white sugar with a little molasses coated back on. People have grown cane for about 10,000 years, since it was first domesticated in New Guinea, and every culture that grew it made its own whole, unrefined sugar. Only in the last 150 years or so has industry broken it into parts. That’s the difference you taste in this caramel.

Make your own. If you can find fresh sugarcane (sold by the stalk at Latin American, Asian, and Caribbean markets), peel 6–8 stalks, cut them into pieces, and run them through a heavy-duty juicer or cane press for about 6–8 cups of juice. Pour yourself a small glass while it’s fresh; it’s one of the most refreshing things you’ll ever taste. Strain the rest, bring it to a boil in a heavy-bottomed pot, skim off the foam, then simmer on medium-low for 1½–2 hours as it darkens. Cook to 235–240°F for a soft block or 245–250°F for a firm one, pour it into ramekins or silicone muffin molds, and let it cool for 2–4 hours. You’ll get about 6–8 oz. In USDA zone 9 and warmer, sugarcane grows as an easy backyard perennial, and a cutting from a friend’s plant roots easily.

Keep a block in your pantry. Wrapped in parchment, tapa dulce keeps at room temperature for 6 months or more. Grate it into this caramel, Mexican café de olla, chai, or Brazilian doce de leite, anywhere you want the full depth of the cane instead of the flat sweetness of white sugar.

Sourcing

  • Tapa dulce: organic when you can find it, from Costa Rican specialty markets or Latin American groceries (look for “panela,” “piloncillo,” or “rapadura,” depending on the country of origin), made from just cane juice.

  • Fresh sugarcane stalks (for homemade): from Latin American, Asian, or Caribbean markets, or your own backyard in USDA zone 9 and warmer.

  • Raw heavy cream: from a local raw dairy or Amish creamery (find one at realmilk.com). If raw isn’t available, organic, grass-fed, non-homogenized cream from Kalona SuperNatural. Look for cream from grass-fed Jersey or Guernsey cows when you can, since it’s richer in butterfat and golden beta-carotene.

  • Honey: organic, local, and unfiltered, from a nearby beekeeper, or Really Raw Honey. (It’s simmered in the caramel, so any good local honey works.)

  • Wild berries: foraged (mulberries grow across most of the U.S., and blackberries and raspberries grow wild along trail edges and old fence lines), from a farmers’ market or pick-your-own farm, or from your own backyard berry patch. Mulberries, raspberries, and blackberries are productive perennials in most U.S. zones. Always forage from unsprayed spots.

  • Vanilla: organic, single-origin vanilla beans or pure vanilla extract with no added sugar.

  • Salt: Baja Gold sea salt for the carame

More ways to enjoy your kefir: Mango Kefir Lassi with Cardamom, Raw Kefir Shake with Bee Pollen and Berries, and nine kefir smoothies (Raw Kefir Strawberry, Coconut Kefir Cloud, Berry-Cherry Kefir Cream, Banana-Vanilla Kefir Milkshake, Berry Cream, Fig Orange, Kefir Matcha Pitaya, Mocha Maca, and Blue Piña Nana). Find them all in my Substack article, along with how to match each one to your cycle.

— Anna aka Food Marshall

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